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2019/06/14 |
ȸ |
1411 |
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÷ ̸̹
̾ ̺ Ƶٽ
Ұġ
*(Drop) : ÷ Ƽ-̳ ÷ Ϻ Ǵ Ҽ Ʈũ (Ǹ)ϴ .
2018 4 LVMH 귣 ͡ ÷̼ Ʈ̽ ÷( 1600 ) ǵǴ ɸ ð Ұ 16ʿ. 귣尡 ÷ ҽ ˸ ķ 3 Ҽ ̵ ǰ ¥ Խ ͻ̴. ̷ õ Ÿ ǰ Ȥϱ ƮƮ ϴ ش.
(drop)̶ θ ̷ Ǹ ÷ Ƽ ̳ ÷ Ϻ Ǵ Ҽ Ʈũ (Ǹ)ϴ ȴ. ⺻ ̵ 鿡 ǰ̶ ȯ ɾ ſ 氢 Ű ̴. ̷ ǰ ΰų ٷο ƴ ̶ ȯ .
ƮƮ 귣 θ ͵ ŷ̴. 1990 Ʈ ó ȸ ŵ Ǹſ Ŵ δƮ(̱ 忡 2022 410 ) ϸ 10 ġ ƴ. Ư ̵ ٰ (season-less) ̷ мǰ Ӱ ȭ״.
÷ ij 16
Ȱ ٸ мǰ ÷̾, Ƶٽ Ű ̺롯 ˷ա ϡ Ϻ Ұ 귣 ӡ̶ Ͻ پ . < Ÿӽ> 2017 ̾ (the year of the drop)̶ Ī߰, ؿ ̾.
ֱ ̷ ̽. ǥϴ Ÿ 귣 Ÿź üũ ȸ 10 17 ӡ ø Ŵ ̶ ǥߴ. Ŵ 17Ͽ 귣 νŸ ê (ѱ īī, Ϻ ) ο ǰ ϴ ̴. ̸ ǥ 10 17Ϻ ǰ ߴ.
24ð̶ ѵ ð ̵ Ǵ Ź Ը . ȸ ǥ ο ̶͡ ߴ. 귣带 ̲ Ż Ÿ ̳ ī Ƽð ù ° ƮƮ ִ Ʈ Ƽ.
Ż ¥ Ҽ ̵
Ÿ 귣 ʷ ÷ǿ ƮƮ Ҿ־ ũ ״ ״ TB( Thomas Burberry) ΰ . Ÿ ƮƮ ù ӡ ϼ ȭƮ Ƽ ǸŰ 290( 36), Ʈ 450( 57) Ǹŵƴ.
Bø(ǻ ϴ B ǹ) Ī ̳ īϿ Ʈ (Yeezy) Ӱ ϰ ¥ - ǰ ϱ ̾ ¥ ղŴ ̿ ҵ Ƽ ȯ̶ ִ. Ư ӽ(LeBron James), ѳ, ϵ 긮Ƽ Ƽ Bø ī Ǹ鼭 Ҽ ̵ (buzz) ϴ ̴.
ó ҵ ϰ پ ϰ 庻 ôڴ Ƽ ũ ϸ װ ʸ ص ƴϴ. ״ 2010 Ÿ 귣 ʷ мǼ ̺ Ʈ(5 73 Ʈ ̿ϴ 10 ) ߴ.
ī Ƽ ,
̾ 2016 ó (See Now, Buy Now) Ī, (忡 Ҹŷ ) ũ յ , Ҽ ̵ Բ (phygital)* ÷̼ Ÿ ģȭ ڷ .
ó Ÿ 귣尡 ã α ƮƮ 귣 ߴٴ ǿ . ӡ ó α⸦ ΰ? ̷ Ʈ尡 Ǹ Ӱ ΰ? ǰ ó ¾ƶ ΰ ̴.
ӡ αⰡ ϴ ϴ. ư -ǵ ð() ǰ ª Ŭ (Ҹ) å̴.
нƮм + SNS + зϾ = ó
츮 ﰢ ӵǴ (뺧Ƽ) ϴ ǵ(on demand) ȸ ִ. 귣尡 ֹ(䱸) ﰢ ߱⸦ Ѵ. ͽŬú ũ ã Ŀ鼭 ҵ ӡ̶ ֻ ó źߴ١ ø(London College of Fashion) м ڽ ֳ ߴ.
Ʈ ȸ WGSN ǽ ôϾ ó ª ǰ Ŭ ֽ Ƿ ø ȭ ߽ δ١ ߴ. Ż мǽ (Polimoda) ٴҷ ߸ ο 糪 ()ٴ ͵ ٷ ⼭ Ͼ, 縦 ߿ϴ Ŀ ״ ݿȴ١ Ƿߴ
.
ƮƮ Ŀ 귣 ̷ Ʈ带 ̿ϾƷ νĵ H&M̳ ڶ ̸ũ 귣 ó Ѵ. ƮƮ ̷ Ʈ忡 ĪǴ Ͱ Ʈ ʿ䳪 ؿ нƮм ܼƮ ۵ ̴١ Ѵ.
ƮƮ, ͽŬú & н
нƮм Һڵ ȯǰ ҺǴ ǰ ͼϰ . ֿ ǰ ȸ ִٴ 氢 忡 ﰢ ϴ ̴. ƮƮ 귣 ͽŬú н(¥ Ҹ ̸ ˸ ʴ ) ߰ ӡ̶ ķ .
ٸ Ʈ κ ϴ Ҽ ̵ ó ߽ɿ ִٴ ̴. ̵ Ŀ ϴ 鼭 귣 Ҽ ̵ հ 麸 ε巯 ΰ ؾ ߴ. Ӱ Ҹ ϴ ϸ Ȯϰ Ҹ 鸱 ְ ϴ°? ٸ 긵 ġƮ(Launchmetrics) ʹ Ѵ.
״ мũ Ⱓ 귣 ظ Ʋ ߿ Ǵ ͺٵ 800% 귣带 ˸ ִ. ó ̿ ִ ̴. Ϳ ÷̼ ǰ Ī ǥ ٸ ǰ Ϲ ( Ʈ) 4 Ʈ ١ мߴ.
Ŀ = Ʈ? 漺 Ŀ´Ƽ
ǰ Ҽ ̵ ū Ű ƴϸ ̷ ý 귣 漺 Ŀ´Ƽ ֵ ´. Ī ¥ ð ˾ƾ ϴµ Ī ؼ ͽŬú 쿡 ־ Ѵ١ Ѵ. 긵Դ װ ġ Ʈ (cult gang) . Ŀӵ ̳ Ʈ ִٰ ; Ѵ. ǥ ̴١ ٿ.
м ۴ϵ鸸 ó ƴϴ. ÷ ϳ Ҽ Ʈũ ƿ䡯 ġ ְ ǡ м ۵ ģ Ǹ ϴ ε ź ¡(status symbol) ִ.
Ҽ ̵ Ӱ еǴ ø Ϳ ɸ ġ д. ΰ ȭǴ ν ֱ ϰ κ ޱ Ѵ١ ٿ. ڽ 귣鿡 ˰ ִ ְ Ϻο Ư ǰ ߴٴ Ƿκ ŷڸ Ѵ.
̷ SNS Ÿ, Ϲ ߿ ȿ
ó ȿ ó Ҽ ̵ ̷ Ÿ ǰ ϴ ̵Ӹ ƴ϶ Ϲ ߿Ե ۵Ѵ. Һڵ ܺ ڽŵ ŷϴ ̵ ϴ ִ. κ ÷ Ҽ ̵ ڽ ȷο ̵ ÷ ǰ ѹ ø Ǹ ̰ (word of mouth) ȴ.
ڷ Ϻ ð뿡 ߵ Ҽ ̵ ְ ξ Ʈ忡 ȤDZ . Ҽ ̵ 츮 귯 װ DZ ̴١ 긵Դ Ѵ.
ġ Ŀ ٸ ǰ ܼ ϴ ƴ϶ װ ؾ Ѵٴ ̴. Ÿ ǰ ʹ ְ Ǹ鼭 , Ư Ҽ ô뿡 ź α Ž Ȯ ִ Ͻ(bot businesses) ο δƮ л״. ؼ ؾ ϰ Ȯ ƴٰ ϴ .
Ұġ ϵ (hard to get)
LA ̱ ƮƮ 귣 ƼҼȼҼŬ(ASSC) ij ÷ (Shopify) ǰ ߸ (Frenzy) Ʈʽ 귣 ҵ鿡 Ҹ üũϰ ð ȿ ¶ Ƽ Ʈ ϵ ϴ ̺Ʈ ߴ. ҿ üũϱ ؼ ġ 007 ϴ ģ.
ASSC ΰ ȭȣ ȭ ɸ ִ ڸ ص ִ ν ڵ尡 ´. ص ؼ (LA þ ) ڵ α īƮٿ Ÿ̸ӿ ð ȿ -ũ ǰ ִ. ̷ HYPE(̰ )ϸ鼭 ǽı ֱ ҵ ã´.
ó ASSC (virtual) Ȥ ̵ 縦 ư ó ¼ ̱ Ÿ ȭ ٴϽ 2017 ӡ̶ Ҹ α ÷ 忡 Ʋ ٿ. Ư డ ̳ʷ ̺ Ƽƽ ð ִ ƺΰ ȭƮ ѱ 귣 ٶ Ż Ÿ 30 귣尡 ͽŬú ĸ ÷ ̺Ʈ ߴ.
ASSC + , 007
û ŵװ ٴϽ 6 ܼƮ ġ ڻ 忡 ̱ ƮƮ α ̵ 귣 δ ̽Ƽ(Highsnobiety) Ʈʽ ° 縦 Ȳ ġ ߴ.
ٰ ̵鿡 ۿϴ ƴϴ. Ϻ Ϸ鿡 ijī찡 DZ ϴ ̵鿡 Ȱ . Һڵ 귣 ̵ƼƼ Ưϴٰ ȿ Ѵ. Һڵ װ ƴٰ ų ڽ ġ ʴٰ ϸ ݰ ̴١ ø мǡ к ڽ Ÿ Ŭ ӽ ߴ.
귣 Ÿ ־ Ѵ١ 긵Դ Ѵ. ÷ ϵ ؼ 귣尡 ŭ (ľ)ϰ ־ Ѵ١ Ѵ.
̵ƼƼ ݺ , ۿ뵵
̷ Ϻο ǥ DZ ´. Ÿ ǰ ϴ Ϳ ǹ̸ д. Ű 츮Ƽ ð(ϰ Һϴ) ġ д. Ÿ 귣 Һ Ȱϱ Ÿ Ÿ 귣 ġ ̵ƼƼ õ ־ ɼ ִ١ δ.
귣 ȸ ũƼꡯ < м ġ-м Ͻ ο (The Fashion Switch: the new rules of the fashion business)> Ƴ ؼ ٰ ߿ϴٰ Ѵ.
Ÿ 귣 ϴ ۿ . װ ټ Ͽ ؼ ̷ ڰ ʿϴ. ī Ƽð 귣 ġ ùٸ Ǵϱ ؼ ð ʿϴ.
& ġ ߽ϴ Ÿ
ó зϾ Z鿡 ũ Ʈ Һڵ (convenience) (novelty) ߿ ϸ ̴ Եȴ. Ʈ尡 ߿ Ʈ尡 ִٴ ؾ Ѵ١ ٴҷ ߸ ߴ.
1 H&M űԷ Ī 귣 ̵硯 ߴ ҽ . 1 ä Ͻ Ī ̵ ϰ Ʈ H&M÷ ȿ ԽŲٴ ̴. ŸƮ ŻƼ ο Ʈ ܼƮ H&M װ ÷̼ ո ݴ Ÿ Ʈ ʰ ξ ż ÷ δٴ ̾.
H&M 귣 ̵ ߴ
Ư Ʈ忡 ΰ зϾ Ÿ ÷ ѵ , ÷ Ͽ콺 긮Ƽ ÷ (Dr. Woo), ƾ ī(Justine Skye), Ʈ (Hart Denton) ÷ ϴ ̴.
12 ξ (Dua Lipa) ڽ ƮͿ ̵ ÷ ۾ ҵ ҽ ˷Ȱ ú Ī ̾ ౸Ÿ ÷ ҵǴ 귣 12 Ҽ Ʈũ ο ÷ǿ ߴߴ.
̿ Ʈ ߴܵ ƴϸ 귣尡 H&M ÷ ó ȭ ̶ . ̵ 츱 ü ʾ 귣 ̷ Ȳ̴.
& ũ ũ! ڡ?
ƶ ١ ߸ ̴. ڱ ڽ ̵ƼƼ ϱ ο ڵ ̳ ο ʵ ٲٴ ͺ Ѵ. м δƮ ̼ â ִ Ѵ. 츮 Ű ũ ̿ ο ũ ȭ ؾ Ѵ. !
߿ õ ִ. δƮ ۷ ߴ ҷ(Wayne Srensen) 2016 ̽ 귣 ҷ(SRENSEN) Ī, 丮 Ѵ. ҷ ǰ ̴ źѴ. ״ 귣带 (fanzines : Ű) ϴ ܼƮ ̽ ǰ ϴ ä ϰ õǸ õ () Ѵ.
Ÿ ܼƮ ﰢ ؾ ϴ Ű . ó ؼ ȣ ϴ ִ Ưϰ Ŭ δ. Ͻ ٲ ̳ ø(flipping) ٴ ġ ÷ͳ ̴.
ҷ õ õ彺
ο 츮 ؼ ο (̽ VS ) ٿ ´. 3 Ī â 츮 (, Ͼ, ̹, 7 īװ) ܼƮ ǰ ǹ̿ ִ ũ ſ ִ١ ҷ ߴ.
ο ̽ Ƿ翧( ٸ ) 6 Ǵ 1 ڿ ٽ ִٴ ǿ Ѵ. ֱ LA ù 忡 츮 鿡 , Ư ī̺ ϸ鼭 Ģ ο ǰ ũ ̽ ִ ÷ õƴ١ ߴ.
ó پ õ ӿ ٵ ߿ ִ ΰ ϴ ̴. ̷ ǵ ۵ Żǰ̳ Ҽ ǰ ѹٴ ̴. ߸ ̳ ̳ Ϳ ̴. װ ȭ ̱ ϸ м ȭϱ ̴١ ߴ.
̷? ȭ м = ȭ
̷ Ǹ ̶ ʴ´. װ ٸ Ͱ ȭ ̴. ø Ŭ ӽ ̿ Ѵ.
ǰ Ű鼭 ӵ ̿ Բ ȭѴ. Ư Ϻδ ٸ ̵鿡 ְ 忡 ټ ϱ ϰ ڽ ϴ Ȯ ¶ (online bots : ΰ ý ǰ Ǵ ) ̿ϰų ̷ ý Ҽ ǰ Ȯ ̱ Ѵ.
ټ м 귣 2019 ȣϴ ÷̼ 鼭 dz а ӵ δ. ü ۷ν(Glossy) ϸ 149 м Ƽ 귣 38% ÷ ǰ̳ ĸ ÷ ؿ ̶ . м 41% ÷̼ ˾ Ÿ ̺Ʈ, .
̳ʺƼ ÷̼ õ
ٵ Ҽ ̵ Ŀ, Ư Һڵ ο ǰ̳ ̺Ʈ ã ̳̽ νŸ ÷ ȯϸ鼭 ٸ 귣 ÷ δƮ ʼ ȴ. ص ÷ ǰ ٶ ̾ ̹ ÷ Ŀ ִ.
̸ غϱ 귣 ÷̼̳ ٸ о ǰ ÷ ⱸ ã Ѵ. ǰ ü ޱ(Smeg) Ż Ÿ 귣 ü&ٳ ĥ ֹ ǰ Ƿ ÷η ġ(Florence Welch) Ŀ Ƽ ϱ ߴ.
귣 ÷̼̳ ӵ ̻ ʰ ĸ ϱ ߴ. ̷ ǵ Ȯ 귣 ̸ ִ ο ɰŸ ãƾ ϴ Ȳ ִٴ ̴.
*(phygital) : (physical) (digital) ռ, (physical) (digital) ̸ . ¶ Ʋ ´ ̱ ϴ. (digical)̶ ǥϱ Ѵ.
ó: мǺ 2019 6 14
۱ Fashionbiz , ۷ι мǺϽ Ű.
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